<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Training, fingers and hangboards — Boulder Trainer</title><description>Hangboard protocols, finger-strength training and gear notes from the team behind Boulder Trainer.</description><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/</link><language>en</language><item><title>Climbing Training Streaks: Why Habits Beat Motivation</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/climbing-training-streak/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/climbing-training-streak/</guid><description>Consistency beats intensity over a season. Here&apos;s the behavioral science of habits and streaks — and how to use a streak to build training that lasts without burning out.</description><pubDate>Tue, 28 Jul 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>climbing training habit</category><category>training consistency</category><category>habit formation</category><category>training streak</category><category>climbing motivation</category><category>training routine</category></item><item><title>Bouldering Plan: Beginner vs Advanced — What Changes</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/beginner-vs-advanced-plan/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/beginner-vs-advanced-plan/</guid><description>Beginners get strong just by climbing; advanced climbers need targeted stress. Here&apos;s exactly what changes — including the year-based rule for when to start hangboarding.</description><pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>beginner climbing training plan</category><category>when to start hangboarding</category><category>advanced climbing training</category><category>climbing volume vs intensity</category><category>climbing plateau</category></item><item><title>Campus Board vs Hangboard: Which Do You Need?</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/campus-board-vs-hangboard/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/campus-board-vs-hangboard/</guid><description>One builds maximum finger strength, the other explosive power — and most climbers only need one of them. Here&apos;s how to choose, and when a campus board is worth the risk.</description><pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>campus board vs hangboard</category><category>contact strength</category><category>campus board training</category><category>when to campus board</category><category>finger power</category><category>hangboard vs campus</category></item><item><title>Deload Weeks: Why Training Less Builds More Progress</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/deload-weeks-climbing/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/deload-weeks-climbing/</guid><description>A deload isn&apos;t lost time — it&apos;s when adaptation happens. Here&apos;s how to program a deload week, what to reduce, and the science of why less becomes more.</description><pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>deload week climbing</category><category>deload climbing</category><category>rest week training</category><category>supercompensation</category><category>recovery week</category><category>overtraining climbing</category></item><item><title>RPE in Climbing: Train Hard Without Overtraining</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/rpe-in-climbing/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/rpe-in-climbing/</guid><description>Fixed percentages assume you&apos;re identical every day — you aren&apos;t. Here&apos;s how RPE and autoregulation let you match load to how your fingers actually feel, backed by strength science.</description><pubDate>Tue, 30 Jun 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>rpe climbing</category><category>autoregulation climbing</category><category>reps in reserve</category><category>rpe scale</category><category>hangboard rpe</category><category>training load</category></item><item><title>Bouldering Training Plan: Periodization for Home &amp; Gym</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/bouldering-training-plan/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/bouldering-training-plan/</guid><description>Stop training randomly. Here is how to structure a bouldering plan into base, strength, power and deload phases — and how to pick linear, block or undulating periodization for your life.</description><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>bouldering training plan</category><category>climbing periodization</category><category>training phases climbing</category><category>block periodization</category><category>deload</category><category>climbing cycle</category></item><item><title>Open Hand vs Crimp: Which Grip Protects Your Fingers?</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/open-hand-vs-crimp/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/open-hand-vs-crimp/</guid><description>The full crimp puts up to 31.5× more force on your A2 pulley than an open hand. Here&apos;s how the three grips differ biomechanically — and which to train.</description><pubDate>Tue, 16 Jun 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>crimp vs open hand</category><category>half crimp</category><category>full crimp</category><category>open hand grip</category><category>grip position climbing</category><category>pulley load grip</category></item><item><title>Finger Strength Training: 5 Best Exercises for Climbers</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/finger-strength-exercises/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/finger-strength-exercises/</guid><description>Finger strength is the single best predictor of climbing grade. Here are the five exercises with the strongest evidence — and how to program them safely.</description><pubDate>Tue, 09 Jun 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>finger strength training climbing</category><category>finger strength exercises</category><category>no hang training</category><category>block pulls</category><category>max hangs</category><category>grip strength climbing</category></item><item><title>Pulley Injuries in Bouldering: Signs &amp; Prevention</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/pulley-injury-bouldering/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/pulley-injury-bouldering/</guid><description>The pop you never want to hear. Here&apos;s how to recognize a finger pulley injury, why crimping multiplies the risk, and how to prevent and rehab it based on the research.</description><pubDate>Tue, 02 Jun 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>pulley injury climbing</category><category>a2 pulley injury</category><category>finger injury climbing</category><category>climbing pulley tear</category><category>crimp injury</category><category>pulley rehab</category></item><item><title>Hangboard Training: The Complete Guide for Boulderers</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/hangboard-training-guide/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/hangboard-training-guide/</guid><description>Everything a boulderer needs to train fingers safely: the three main hangboard methods, the research behind them, load and edge guidelines, and a beginner-safe first protocol.</description><pubDate>Tue, 26 May 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>hangboard training</category><category>max hangs</category><category>hangboard repeaters</category><category>finger strength</category><category>fingerboard workout</category><category>edge depth</category></item><item><title>How Often Should You Hangboard? The Research</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/how-often-hangboard/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/how-often-hangboard/</guid><description>Two to three sessions a week, 48 hours apart — but the real answer depends on your total finger load, not just hangboard days. Here&apos;s what the studies actually say.</description><pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>how often should you hangboard</category><category>hangboard frequency</category><category>hangboard per week</category><category>finger training frequency</category><category>rest between hangboard</category></item><item><title>Climbing Grade Conversion: Font, V-Scale, German 1–8 &amp; IRCRA</title><link>https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/climbing-grade-conversion/</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://boulder-trainer.com/blog/climbing-grade-conversion/</guid><description>Font, V-Scale, the German gym 1–9 level system and the research-standard IRCRA scale all measure the same thing differently. Here is a full conversion chart — and an honest look at where the numbers stop lining up.</description><pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2026 00:00:00 GMT</pubDate><category>climbing grade conversion</category><category>font to v scale</category><category>german bouldering grades</category><category>ircra scale</category><category>bouldering grade chart</category><category>v scale conversion</category></item></channel></rss>